MWXNE 3000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter DC 24V to 110V 120V AC for Vehicles RV Truck Home Off-Grid Solar System

Pretty good for the price. So far has handled everything that I do & it is used daily (House solar set up). The only issue so far after 4 months was the RCU went bad on me. It was replaced as it was under warranty.

This is being updated weeks after getting it.
I am hooking this into a 24V, 100Ah LFP battery. I added an Anderson 175A quick connector to the supplied cable as this is meant for a portable setup. Probably should have done the 120A version. I also added an anti-spark circuit. While some people manually touch resisters and wires together to pre-charge the caps, my normal mode is to have a separate circuit designed for lower power that I hook up first to charge the caps with and then hook up the main circuit. Really, if you are going to be using this in a portable fashion, you will be thanking yourself for doing this down the road or at least not cursing because you can't get it to work with destroyed and heavily oxidized connectors and blown caps due to all of the sparking and abrupt high "short circuit" inrush currents and such.

So far I have only found a few minor cons:
1. As is as this is used as an "independently derived system", I used the terminal block to wire neutral to ground. I found hot and neutral are mislabeled on the front, which the socket tester quickly spotted, so I switched to the right conductor. At least the black wire is hot, so they got that much right. Now it passes the wiring test. As you could fry something if you don't go through the paces / have an unsafe setup or say with your camper / RV, end up having your RV reject the power, I thought this was important to point out.

2. The supplied DC battery wiring does get a little warm while pulling 2,400W through the inverter. They say that 4 AWG wire in the manual is good enough, but I have to wonder if 2 AWG would be a better idea.

3. The 110V/120V button on the RCU seems to cause an error message. Really, not sure why this button is there. Anything can take up to 125V, which this will never exceed and lower voltages mean easier to brown out over extension cables. It looks like there is a special procedure to get it to switch, but why would you?

4. The deal with the wired remote and wireless is a little confusion. Just use one or another, not both. It looks like for the wireless remote, you need a special battery, but the information for this is in the manual. It looks like the wireless remote works in parallel to the main on/off switch, meaning the switch needs to be off while the wired remote needs the unit to be turned on and then it can be used to activate / inactivate the inverter portion of the unit. For the wireless remote, if you do have the main power switch on, you will just hear the unit make a clicking sound as you hit the on and off buttons on the remote, but it won't affect anything because the main switch is already causing the inverter to be powered on.

For pros of this unit:
1. It seems I can load up both of the supplied 120V outlets to sum up greater than 1,500W. This is actually how I got up to 2,400W in my testing with the limit there I didn't want to push the battery harder. I have since wired up the terminal block to a 10 AWG extension cable going to a TT-30 plug.

2. It has a nice and useful display. Really, this makes the unit nicer than most because everything is right there on one screen.

3. Overall, it does seem like a nice unit that will do the job I have for it.

To go back over wiring to sum it all up in one place:
1. Wired a jumper wire between ground and neutral in order to have a ground-neutral bond in the system. Unless you are wiring to a panel that already has a ground-neutral bond, this is needed for safety. This is done with fork connectors.

2. Wired a ground wire from the ground terminal on the inverter to a wall plug with only the ground wire hooked up. This allows me to easily hook the inverter to house ground. As this is an independently derived electrical system, with #1, I now have a complete electrical setup like you would at your main panel with a ground - neutral bond and an earth-ground. It is just this is all wired up at the terminal block instead of inside of a panel. The other benefit is now if you are using for backup or supplemental power in your home, everything is at the same reference voltage.

3. A 10 AWG cable hooked up to the terminal block. 10 AWG can carry the full power of this 3,000W inverter. For now, this goes to a TT-30 plug that is plugged into a fan-out adapter cable so I can plug multiple devices straight into this 30A capable cable. TT-30 is handy as you can find this on trailers and at camping sites as well as generators. So one plug type and I have versatility to use my equipment as I see fit, inverter, inverter generator, extension cords, and camp site plugs.

Exterior quality is superb, very nice feel and so with the looks. The only thing is that when u go over 45C temp. Is too loud for me. My application was window AC hook up to my off grid solar sys. And i put this about 6ft away frm my bed. So every time the cooling fan kicks in, its loud. But if u put this away where u could isolate the noise then i highly recommend this PSW inverter. Plus the customer service guyz are the best, hands down.--From Amazon